Domaine La Colombette is a fourth-generation family estate near Béziers, and father-and-son team François and Vincent Pugibet have spent over two decades refining their approach to dealcoholisation. This Baron de Chanteclerc white uses reverse osmosis and distillation to strip out the alcohol, with CO2 added afterwards for the effervescence. The grapes are Souvignier Gris and Muscaris — both disease-resistant hybrid varieties that produce naturally aromatic, characterful fruit. The result is a dry sparkling wine with notes of apple, pear and a faint brioche quality. It's not trying to be Champagne, but it's a cut above the usual supermarket AF fizz. The residual sugar comes in at around 22g per litre, which keeps it firmly in dry territory. Best served well chilled. A reasonable house pour for occasions where you want something more grown-up than sparkling water but without the ceremony of tracking down a specialist bottle.