JP Chenet's Free range sits at the budget end of dealcoholised wine — this is supermarket own-brand territory in all but name, and it's worth being clear-eyed about that. The Cabernet Syrah blends 60% Cabernet Sauvignon with 40% Syrah from the Pays d'Oc, and the alcohol is removed without heating or added chemicals, which is a better method than some at this price point. The nose leads with cherry and blackcurrant, with a touch of liquorice and pepper that gives it some character. In the glass it's ruby red and clear. On the palate the dark fruit carries through, though the body is thinner than the aroma suggests — dealcoholised reds typically lose some of their structural weight, and this one is no exception. It's not pretending to be something it isn't, and at its usual price it delivers a recognisable red-wine experience without much fuss. Serve slightly cool rather than at room temperature.