The So Free Chardonnay is JP Chenet's white offering in their alcohol-free range, made from 100% dealcoholised wine and grape must with no added aromas. The dealcoholisation process avoids heat, which gives it a better chance of preserving the variety's natural character than some cheaper methods. In the glass it's what you'd expect from a Chardonnay: green apple and pear up front, with a light buttery note that lingers. The acidity is present enough to stop it tasting flat, and the finish is clean. At 20 calories per 100ml it's notably light, and the 5g of residual sugar per 100ml keeps it from tasting austere. For an everyday dealcoholised white — the sort you'd open on a Tuesday without thinking too hard about it — this does the job. It's widely available and priced accordingly.