Cantina Zaccagnini has been making wine in Bolognano, Abruzzo since 1978. The Tralcetto is their dealcoholised range — an attempt to bring the pleasures of Italian white wine to those not drinking alcohol, without resorting to a soft drink or a sparkling water dressed up in a wine glass. The production method is genuinely sophisticated. Zaccagnini uses a two-stage vacuum evaporation column process: first, volatile aromas are captured and held, then the ethanol is removed through carefully controlled temperature increases. The aromas are then put back into the wine. The result is a dealcoholised white that still smells like wine. On the palate it is light and clean, with yellow fruit and a moderate acidity that prevents it feeling flat. It's not complex — the process inevitably strips some texture and depth — but it's honest about what it is. Serve it well-chilled as you would any dry Italian white, and it holds up well at the table. Available online and via specialist AF retailers.