JP Chenet Cabernet Syrah is an alcohol-free red wine made in Landiras, in south-west France. It begins as a real wine, then has its alcohol taken out by vacuum distillation, a method that lowers the boiling point so the alcohol can be removed gently and the fruit stays intact; grape must is blended back in and no extra aromas are added, so it stays a real wine rather than a fruit juice. It is deep ruby in the glass. The aroma carries dark berries, blackcurrant and spice, with plum and cherry behind them and a trace of soft tannin. To taste, it leans on blackcurrant and a sweet spice, alongside garrigue, the wild herb scent of southern French scrubland. It is built to go with red meats, barbecues and most cheeses.