Surely's Bubbly Red is the most interesting product in their range — non-alcoholic sparkling red wine is a relatively rare category, and they pull it off with reasonable conviction. The wine base is California red, dealcoholised using spinning cone column technology, which uses centrifugal force and nitrogen gas to strip the alcohol while preserving the aromatic compounds. Unfermented varietal grape juice is then reintroduced to replace the lost volume. The result has more tannin and structure than most non-alcoholic wines manage. Dark cherry and plum are the defining flavours, with blackberry adding depth, and the acidity — always more exposed in dealcoholised wines without alcohol to cushion it — is present but not jarring. The moderate carbonation gives it life without turning it into a soda. Surely is a California-focused brand that ships in the US, and this is primarily an American product. For UK buyers it's accessible through specialist AF retailers. At around $25 a bottle it's priced at the accessible end of the premium AF wine market. The Bubbly Red in particular suits food — it handles grilled food and cheese better than the Brut or Rosé, which skew more aperitif.