The Cuvée Révolutionnaire is Moderato's step up in complexity. The Chardonnay spends four months in barrel before the alcohol is removed, which is an unusual approach — most producers do the oak work after the fact with staves or chips, or skip it entirely. The barrel ageing builds structure and a woody note into the wine first, then the vacuum distillation takes the alcohol out at low temperature to preserve what was built. The result is pale gold in the glass. White fruit comes through on the nose — peach, pear, a faint apple note — with a quiet woody undertone beneath. The balance is well-judged: this does not taste like a barrel experiment that got out of hand. On the palate there is enough weight to feel like wine, and the acidity stays lively rather than flat. Seven times fewer calories than a conventional Chardonnay, which is easy to say but less easy to achieve without losing the texture. This one holds together well. A good choice if you want a white wine at the table that has some complexity behind it rather than just freshness.