The JP Chenet Free Rosé sits at the affordable end of the dealcoholised wine shelf — this is the still rosé in the Free range, made from dealcoholised rosé wine blended with rectified grape must. Alcohol is removed by vacuum distillation, a relatively gentle method that gives the fruit aromatics a better chance than heat-based alternatives. The nose is pale pink and brilliant in the glass, with strawberry, cherry and wild berry up front. There's a soft, uncomplicated quality to it — this is not a complex wine, and it isn't trying to be. It tastes clean and fruit-led, light on the palate, with the grape must adding a touch of sweetness that rounds off the acidity without making it feel sugary. At its price point it works well as a table wine or fridge staple, the kind of bottle you'd open without ceremony. It's widely available in supermarkets and six-packs online, which tells you something about who it's pitched at.