AF beer is brilliant. AF gin is convincing. AF wine is trickier, and the science explains why. But understanding the challenge also reveals where the real gems are hiding, and there's a whole new category of drinks that might be even better than what you're looking for.
Why dealcoholising wine is so much harder than beer
Beer typically sits at 4-6% ABV. Wine starts at 12-15%. That's a massive amount of liquid to remove, and it doesn't come out cleanly. There are two main methods, and both have problems.
Vacuum distillation boils off the ethanol at low pressure, around 30-40 degrees. The alcohol goes, but so do delicate aromatics. What's left behind gets concentrated: minerals, sugars, acids all intensify. The result is often denser but more bitter and astringent than the original. Reverse osmosis filters the alcohol out through a membrane. It's gentler on the aromatics, but it strips out minerals and certain phenols too, leaving a wine that feels thin and watery.
Either way, you lose. The structural void left by removing that much alcohol is simply too large to paper over.
“The structural void left by removing that much alcohol is simply too large to paper over”
The colour divide: whites survive, reds struggle
Not all AF wines fail equally. The pattern is consistent across tastings and research.
Sparkling AF wine is the standout performer. Bubbles do remarkable work, mimicking the "bite" and energy that alcohol provides. The high pressure in sparkling wine also helps release aromas even without ethanol as a carrier. Thomson & Scott Noughty and Oddbird are both genuinely enjoyable.
Still whites hold up reasonably well, particularly aromatic varieties. Grapes like Muscat, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc have strong enough varietal character to survive the process. Torres Natureo is a solid example.
Rosé translates surprisingly well. Summer fruit notes, strawberry, apricot, seem resilient to dealcoholisation. Gruvi makes a good one.
Still reds face the biggest challenge. Red wine relies on a careful balance of tannins, alcohol, and fruit, and removing the alcohol disrupts the whole structure. Some producers lean heavily on oak to compensate, which can overpower the fruit. The best AF reds (Zero Regrets Primitivo, Sovi) focus on fruit-forward styles where the grape character carries the drink rather than relying on structural complexity.
**12-15%**
ABV removed from wine, vs 4-6% from beer
High
Parity rating for sparkling AF wine
Low-Medium
Parity rating for still red AF wine
The proxy revolution
Here's where it gets interesting. Instead of trying to strip alcohol from wine and hoping something drinkable remains, a new category has emerged: wine proxies. These aren't dealcoholised wines at all. They're built from the ground up using botanical extracts, teas, juices, and vinegars, designed to perform the same function as wine at the dinner table.
The approach focuses on four elements that make wine work with food: balance, acidity, texture, and length.
For acidity, producers use verjus, lemon juice, or apple cider vinegar to create that sharp tang that cuts through rich food. For texture and tannin, they turn to Oolong tea, Lapsang Souchong for smokiness, even acorn extracts. For complexity, expect ingredients like pink peppercorns, hibiscus, chamomile, and mushrooms.
The mental shift required is simple but important. Stop looking for a "Cabernet dupe." Start looking for a "savoury red" or a "bright floral white." Proxies don't taste exactly like wine. But they provide a more satisfying food pairing than most dealcoholised wines because they actually have the weight and intensity that dealcoholisation removes.
What to actually buy
- With dinner: Skip dealcoholised red wine entirely. Go for a wine proxy (Acid League, Noughty Rouge, or ISH) that's designed for food pairing
- Celebrations: AF sparkling wine genuinely works. Noughty or Oddbird with some cold fizz, and you're sorted
- Casual sipping: AF white wines are decent, especially aromatic varieties. Torres Natureo Muscat is a reliable choice
- Summer: AF rosé is consistently better than you'd expect. Try it properly chilled
AF wine is improving fast, and the proxy category is adding options that didn't exist two years ago. The trick is knowing which styles already shine (sparkling, aromatic whites) and where to look when you want something for the dinner table. The best AF wine experiences right now come from matching the right drink to the right moment.