Castillo de Salobreña has been made by Industrias Espadafor in Granada since 1978 — long before the current wave of AF drinks — and it shows. This is not a dealcoholised wine. It is a non-alcoholic fruit drink built from water, apple juice concentrate (1.9%), sugars, sweeteners, and grape-red colouring, designed to sit in a wine glass and vaguely suggest the real thing. It does the job within its own narrow ambition. The flavour is sweet and dark-fruited — blackcurrant and grape upfront, a faint apple note underneath, with citric acid keeping it from becoming too syrupy. Serve it cold, around 10-12°C, and it works reasonably well as an aperitif or a table companion if you just want something in a wine glass that isn't water. Where it falls short is the texture. Modern dealcoholised wines have made serious strides in body and mouthfeel; this has neither. It is thin in the way that squash is thin. If you know what you're getting — a flavoured soft drink from a warm Spanish summer tradition rather than a wine equivalent — Castillo de Salobreña is perfectly pleasant. Go in expecting wine and you will be disappointed.